Tromsø herself is like the Northern lights. She worships the night painting the sky with stories we haven’t heard of yet. Let the colour wash over you before she disappears. She is like none other. Bold, pure, magical, mysterious yet surprisingly silent. Amazed by her own beauty, Nature at Tromsø has chosen silence as her best reply. Take a deep breath because everything you inhale here will help you painting dreams for your next generation to follow.
You come out of an airport. You are expecting a bus terminal, a taxi stand or maybe a train or metro station or at least a highway. But all you can see is a deserted road covered in snow and endless mountains in the distance.
You go to a beach. You may have sunbathing in mind. If the water is super clear, you may look around for snorkeling or scuba operators. If you don’t manage to find any such company, maybe it’s time to change to your swimwear and take a dip. But what if you find a sea beach covered by mountains and glaciers. Unlike beach weather, temperature around you is -10 degrees and to provide icing on the cake, the place where you are standing is in such a latitude that the Sun will not rise at all and the color of sand is actually black.
You go to a forest. You find deer running here and there in search of grass and water bodies. But all of a sudden, you notice that everything is frozen and on the carpet of white fresh snow, stand there a reindeer straight from the storybook of children’s Christmas fairy tale.
If you have already grown some imagination, then imagine that you are standing on a frozen lake and in front of you lies an endless expansion of snow covered ice stretching away into the distance till it meets complete darkness. The only sound is coming from a gentle breeze playing within the pine trees in the forest and above it is an ink black sky dotted with stars. You are waiting. You have become a part of the total darkness. Suddenly a green smudge of light begins to dance above you making you realize that all you can see around is a pure magic.
Welcome to the magical Scandinavian land of Tromsø, located deep inside the Arctic circle, it is the northernmost university town of the world. With the offering of Northern light, wild reindeer, magical fjord, arctic sea beach, snowmobiling, husky safaris and midnight sun in the summer, this wonder town of Norway is a place which you should experience once in your lifetime.
Tromso in Winter - Important Informations
Planning to visit the Arctic in Winter comes with many assumptions and challenges. If your friends and colleagues come to know about your plan, there’s a high chance that they will discourage you. Why? First of all you will think it’s super costly and probably you won’t be able to afford it. People will say that it’s freezing cold and not survivable for people from tropical climate. They will say it’s 6 months dark there, the Sun will not rise. You might think there’s nothing to see except snow all around and if luck permits then the aurora at night. But wait? Can I even stand outdoor at below -30°C at the middle of night?
I know. We faced these. We asked ourselves infinite number of times if Tromsø is a correct choice (considering super low budget) and whether it would break our bank. But after coming back, our Facebook wall and Instagram stories created so much impact that I decided to pen down our planning, experience and tips for people like you who has the dream but just need the ignition.
What is Polar Night?
Probably during your school days, you read in the Textbook that in the North and South poles, there is 6 months continuous daylight and 6 months continuous darkness. Well, Tromsø is technically not at the North pole but it’s situated at 69.65°N and the very town from where explorers start their adventure to the North pole. In papers, at Tromsø, the sun does not rise at all from November 27 to January 15. Being surrounded by high mountains all around, Tromsø experiences an early start and a delayed end of this darkness. Practially from Mid November till almost end of January, polar night season engulfs Tromsø. But is it really that dark? To me, Polar night was what drew me towards Arctic at the first place.
We spent 3 nights in Tromsø in January 2020 (13-16th Jan). From 8AM till 3:30PM, the light is perfect for photography. Between 10AM to 2PM, it’s actually quite bright. From 8AM-10AM and from 2PM-4PM, you will experience the blue light which as explained to us during the Northern light tour is loved by many locals. The magical skies and dramatic lights have a special place in the locals heart. Yes, the sun does not rise above the horizon but you are still far from the pole so the darkness is not that much. It’s a subtle twilight, a dream like sky , a call you can’t ignore.
Winter vs Summer?
Let me ask you why are you looking through a guide to Tromsø? Probably because of Northern Light. Or maybe long husky rides across the woods. If your answer is yes, you already know why Winter is the season for you (By Winter, we mean from mid October to March and in case you are interested in cultural activity Sami week is there in February). Are you amazed by the dramatic arctic landscape and you feel nature is more beautiful in Summer? Why don’t you plan Svalbard, Lofoten island or at least Bergen? In summer, I would go to those places. You will have raw nature of Norway, the midnight sun, dramatic fjord cruise and of course, the warmth. You don’t really have to come to Tromsø for that.
Are you afraid of the cold? I hear you. Just read on!
Is Northern Light Guaranteed?
No. What I like about Nature is her unpredictable beauty. No place in the world can guarantee that you will witness Aurora. Having said that, a visit to Tromsø will maximize your chance of seeing it. I researched thoroughly several places and while places like Abisko National Park in Sweden and Ivalo, Inari in Finland promised almost equal probability, no place came closer to the beauty that Tromsø offered. Our idea was even if we missed the display (Fortunately we didn’t), still there are enough attractions to keep us busy. If you choose a place only to visit the Northern lights, plan for a long stay(at least 4 nights). With all calculations and conditions in your favor, you still can be unlucky so don’t take anything for granted.
Just keep one thing in mind. Don’t look for DIY option for Northern lights chase. It’s very very important to be at the right place at the right moment. And it’s NOT easy. I really mean it. No matter how much independent traveler you are, you will surely need local connections and behavior of the light across the territory. Don’t even think to hire a car and drive to a place away from the city lights. Unless you have a local friend, chances are you will be stuck somewhere in snow and ice in the middle of the night with nothing but absolute darkness around you.
Also, do remember that the Northern light season is from September to March. So, don’t plan your trip in April or August for a chance of the Aurora. Yes, you still can see it but you are significantly decreasing the probability of an already unpredictable phenomena.
How Cold is Tromsø?
You probably would think that since Tromsø is so high up north, it must be super cold in the winter season. But for your information, Tromsø is located by the coast, which implies that Tromsø offers a pleasant mild climate. The weather is super unpredictable and it literally changes every 10 minutes. A super clear afternoon sky may deprive you of any aurora activity and a pretty overcast one may offer you the pink lady in her full glory.
The temperatures can vary from -30°C up to 4-5°C in winter. With proper dressing, no weather is extreme or bad. Remember that your dressing needs to be the most appropriate when you are outdoor chasing the northern lights. Many a times, you will be on top a frozen lake or by an arctic fjord with nothing but your dress to keep you warm. So pack your dress properly. Read on this article as at the end where we have a comprehensive winter packing list.
How Expensive is Tromsø?
If you are looking for eating out, shopping and traveling by Taxi then Tromsø is super notoriously expensive. Also, accommodation in the city centre is damn expensive. But our 3nights trip to Tromsø was super budget friendly and we took two Northern light tours, one Roadtrip and went all the way to Fjellheisen.
The tricks? Cook your food or go for Burger King. I understand for many of you, exploring a place is synonymous to experiencing local food but sorry, in Tromsø, you can’t do that in budget friendly way. Book an accommodation outside the Tromsø city centre (A 20minutes bus ride away accommodation will reduce your hotel cost by 50-60%). Travel by Public Bus and buy tickets using Mobile App (Tromsø Mobiliet) instead of paying at the bus (15% higher). For activities (including Cable car ticket for Fjellheisen), book tickets online (cheaper). Read on to know how to choose most budget friendly tours without compromising the quality.
Here are some reference costs for you so that you can understand about your daily budget
- Reindeer Hotdog (A MUST TRY) – 50 NOK
- 90 Minute Bus Ticket – 33 NOK (online) / 50 NOK (on-board)
- Airport to City Taxi Fare – 180-200 NOK
- Meal at Burger King – 120-150 NOK
- Meal at restaurant – 550-700 NOK
- Northern Light Tour – 900-1100 NOK (Big Bus) / 1400-1900 NOK (Mini Bus)
- Arctic Roadtrip Cost – 1050-1400 NOK
- Fjellheisen Cable Car – 150 NOK (one way) / 230 NOK (return)
Transporation in Tromsø
Public transport in Tromsø is quite fantastic and much cheaper than notoriously expensive Taxi. Except in the middle of night, you will find public bus to go to every important point of attractions in Tromsø. That also means that after you have completed any Northern lights tour, if you haven’t opted for a hotel drop off package, Taxi is your only option. After midnight, you will not find public transport to take to your accommodation
Do install the App Tromso Mobillett (Troms Billett ny) in your smartphone. Purchasing tickets through this app is very easy. Use your credit card to pay. Purchasing ticket here is much cheaper than buying at the bus from the driver. Also, please note bus drivers accept cash payments only (NOK). City buses are wheelchair friendly. There is no problem in bringing pets, prams and skis and those are free of charge. Same is applicable for walking frames and small children’s bikes. Additional NOK 6 is charged for an adult bike only when the ticket is purchased on board.
From the app, you can purchase a timed ticket like 90 minute validity or full day validity etc. The 90 minute ticket is called single bus ride ticket but you can actually ride as many bus as you want. As soon as you purchase the ticket, a clock will start in your app. Your time of boarding the bus needs to be before the clock reaches zero. It does not matter if you board the bus and then your ticket validity is expired. Just make sure to buy a new ticket before boarding the next bus. Of course, you can purchase tickets for multiple persons from a single smartphone.
The buses run from early morning till midnight. The Airport Express shuttle is timed with first and last flight so it’s super convenient. The local buses are quite punctual and no matter what the weather and road condition is, you will expect bus in its schedule. We traveled in weekdays and did not find the bus crowded. Only the Bus going up to Fjellheisen was crowded and we didn’t manage to find a seat.
Here are most popular bus connections for you
Airport and City Centre
The convenient but more costly option is to take the Airport Express Coach (Also known as Flybuss). Ticket costs 110Kr for adult and for price change, online ticket booking and latest timetable, you can visit their official website. Just come out of the Airport Exit gate, wait for sometime and you will soon find a bus at your disposal. Tromsø is not a busy airport so bus timings are perfectly matched with the flights. Journey time is approx 15 minutes.
Local bus 40 and 42 run regularly from early morning till midnight from Airport to the city centre. The funny part is how you actually reach the bus terminal. We found it super difficult to understand at first. If you do a google map, it will simply say that there is no public transport. If you come out of the Exit gate of the Airport then you will only find Flybuss Airport Express which the costlier option. We wasted around 30 minutes going out of the airport and coming in but was not being able to understand how to catch bus 40 or 42. There was not a single staff at the airport whom we can ask. Tourists are already gone using Taxi or Express coach but then a local helped us. Although he could not speak English, with sign language he told us how to catch the local bus.
You actually need to take elevator and get down to the Parking space. Walk along it. At the end, you will have to come outdoor again. You will reach a different street than the one you found coming outside the Airport gate. Cross the road and on the opposite side, you will find a bus stop. Remember to cross the road because the one you will find coming out of the parking space is going in the opposite direction. We though it would be a bus terminus but it’s actually a regular bus stop so you can expect crowd. Think again if you have large and bulky luggage. The journey time is approximately 20 minutes.
How To Reach Fjellheisen
You can read the official recommendation here. The only bus that goes till the cable car station is Bus 26. You need to catch it from the opposite to Arctic Cathedral. Just remember, if you wait at the bus stop, the cathedral will be on your front-left corner. From Arctic cathedral, it takes 15 minutes to reach Fjellheisen. Practically, almost everyone gets down there so it’s impossible to miss the stop.
It’s also possible to walk around 45 minutes to reach the top till cable car station but looking at the road condition, we did not risk walking. In summer, probably we would have walked this route.
Do you see the road going all the way up? And a Building on top of that. That’s Fjellheisen for ya!
How To Reach Arctic Cathedral
From Tromsø centre, you can easily walk across the long bridge to reach the Arctic cathedral. Practically it’s impossible to miss its sight. In Bus, it’s a single but long stop as the bus crosses the long bridge. Bus number 22 and 24 from the city centre takes you right in front of Arctic Cathedral.
Tromsø and Kroken
Tromsø is a small harbourside town and it’s completely walkable. But, accommodation is super costly so we chose an AirBNB at Kroken which is around 8KM far from the city centre. The place is uphill compared to Tromsø and our accommodation (Hopefully others in this region also) provided a breathtaking view of the dramatic arctic landscape. I will stress you to book hotel outside the main city of Tromsø. Using Bus 20, it’s a 15minutes scenic ride to Kroken and you can save tremendous amount of money per night.
Curency in Tromsø
The currency in Norway is NOK. Euro (€) is not official currency here and almost no shops accept it. Every transport system (Public bus, Taxis, Cable car ticket counter), every food shop and restaurants, souvenir shops are equipped to accept credit card as a mode of payment. So, do bring your credit card and if you don’t have one, either get one or wait for a exchange rate. It does not make much sense to carry a lot of cash because outside Norway, you again have to exchange it. I remember when I paid in cash at the counters (Food joints, Taxi and Souvenir shops), everyone got very surprised that tourists are carrying their currency.
Tromsø Airport Guide
Tromsø airport is not like any other Airport I have ever been to. First thing first, I read that there is an Foreign Money Exchange counter but there is not. There are ATM but those were not functioning. Maybe it’s not usual but we experienced this in January 2020 so be prepared. Secondly, I heard that Tromsø airport is not open all night (Two reputed Local travel agencies told me this) but this is also wrong. We had a morning flight and in order to save money, we decided to go for a Northern light tour (which ends around 2-3AM) and after that straight to Airport so we can save one night’s hotel cost. There is no flight operating at night, no services (like food/beverage) but the gate and toilets are always open and taxis run all night.
Having said that, spending the night at Tromsø airport is painful. Insulation is not at its best and you will feel cold. It’s very small. You don’t have much room to walk randomly. There is absolutely nothing to see except browsing through a magazine. When my wife was using the washroom, the light inside went out suddenly and there is no possibility to turn it back on without coming back to the public area of the washroom. So, spending overnight at the Airport is possible but even being a super budget traveler, I won’t recommend it.
Hopefully from my transportation guide, you already understood that it’s pretty easy to reach City centre from the Airport. No matter whether you opt to the local public bus, the Airport bus (Flybussen) or a Taxi, you would be in the city centre in about 20minutes. It means that if you happen to be in Tromsø for some hours (A long layover maybe?), it is still possible for you to visit this wonderful city and its harbour.
How Many Days at Tromsø?
Tromsø is not a weekend destination. Not at least in the Winter. For one, Northern lights are not guaranted and secondly, you are limited with daylight. We spent three nights but if I go again, I would prefer four. Of course the more you can stay the better. If you are familiar with my writing style, you know I always provide an one pager downloadable and printable ready to use Infographic. Download it and you will never miss the highlights. Save it offline in your smartphone and refer it while you are in Tromsø or maybe while you are just planning your itinerary.
Highlights of 3 Nights in Tromsø
Here’s how we have split our itinerary in 3 nights. We came to Tromsø from Rovaniemi via two layovers at Helsinki Airport (where we slept last night) and Stockholm Arlanda. We landed at Tromsø around 3PM in the afternoon.
Day 1
As we came out of the Airport, there was literally snow storm. We decided to spend some time inside the Airport and came out when things look stable. We came from Rovaniemi but road and ice condition at Tromsø looked much more slippery and at the beginning I was struggling a lot to walk properly even with snow shoe and honestly we were little nervous if Tromsø in Winter has become a wrong choice from people from Tropical climate. However, after arriving at the city centre, the fear quickly got replaced by admiration.
We reserved the first day purely for leisure. As we chose our accommodation at Kroken and scheduled arrival time was 3PM, we have not risked booking any Northern lights tour on the first day because the tours start from Tromsø city centre and there is no pick up facility (Neither free nor paid) from Kroken. The 15 minutes Bus ride from Tromsø to Kroken was full of beauty through the raw arctic. Even in the darkness of Arctic Winter, it was pure magic.
We had pretty high expectation regarding the view from our hotel balcony. And, we were not disappointed. Here are some samples from the next morning. More attractive photos are there at the section “Where To Stay”
The location of the BNB was absolutely fantastic and we spent most of the evening by the large window beside the balcony. We were sharing the flat with owner and an Argentine boy and his mother. She was quite interested about Indian cooking style and use of herbs and spices while her son was seeking help for a budget last minute northern lights tour for the next day. We chatted for some time and then decided to go to bed early to get recharged for two upcoming packed days.
Day 2
We had pre booked northern lights group tour 6PM so the morning was basically free. Our main target for the day was to ride at the top of Fjellheisen because in almost every article regarding to Tromsø, this is the main highlight in terms of breathtaking view of the city. The airport has a large wall size photo from the top of Fjellheisen. As Fjellheisen is weather permitting, we have not booked in advance but booking online is cheaper. Visit their official website to check if it’s open for the day. On our day of visit, it was showing open but just to cross check I sent an email also. To my surprise, they instantly replied with the good news that it’s open. So I quickly reserved two tickets. The ticket is not timed and there was none in the floor except we two so we spent some time enjoying the raw arctic from the balcony. Even the Bus Stop nearby our hotel also offered a dramatic view.
Would you believe that the photos are taken around 1 hour apart? Yes, that’s the dynamics of Polar light in Tromsø. While eating breakfast, we chalked out the plan for the day. From our accommodation, we had direct bus to the Arctic Cathedral. From there, there is direct connection to the Fjellheisen. Then, we would be coming back to walk by foot the Harbourside city centre of Tromsø.
Arctic Cathedral
Locally known as Ishavskatedralen, the Arctic Cathedral of Tromsø is an architectural masterpiece. It’s a very unique and prominent building of Tromsø which can be seen very clearly from either side of the grand Tromsø bridge (The one you saw in the very top picture and will see again at the section of Fjellheisen). From Tromsø city centre, it is also visible if you are walking along the harbour. If you are attentive, this is visible during landing at Tromsø.
It is said that the Geometry formed out of entirely glass and marble resemble the Iceberg. Do you also feel so?
During our 3 nights, we crossed this Cathedral more than 5 times and under multiple lighting condition. Even though we have not visited the inside, I can promise you that from outside, it is like no other, no matter you lay your eyes upon it in the morning or afternoon or at late night.
Fjellheissen
If you are in Tromsø for some hours and you have only one thing to experience, head to Fjellheissen. Forget what time of the day it is. If the weather is not extremely windy (In that case they anyway don’t operate the cable cars), Fjellheissen will offer you the best view of the northernmost university town of Tromsø. Yes, That’s what it is proudly doing since 1961. With a large viewing platform offering panoramic view of endless sight of islands, fjords, mountains and the open sea, this is hands down the most beautiful viewpoint of Tromsø. We won’t say the most unique though 🙂
Bus number 26 announced clearly that we have reached Fjellheisen. We, along with almost the rest of the passengers got down. After getting down the bus, it’s a single uphill path so you can’t miss it. It’s not the Bus terminal so the Bus left promptly and we started walking towards the Ticket counter. Generally the entire crowd from the bus are the ones queuing up. Most of them have not booked the ticket in advance. So the line is little slow moving but considering the view at the surrounding, it’s not a problem at all. It’s perfectly okay to come here and purchase ticket as there is no question of space sold out. The counter accepts both cash (NOK) and credit card.
We showed e-tickets in the smartphone and then are sent immediately to the boarding platform. Waiting time for the cable car is pretty low. They operate it every 30 minutes on every hour. The cable car gets pretty crowded (At least before COVID-19) so make sure to reserve a spot at any side. If you are sandwiched in the centre and are not very tall, chances are that you won’t be enjoying the journey to the top.
The cable car ride is just grand. No matter which side you look at, it’s sheer beauty. The Arctic rawness at its fullest. Slowly you will find the town buildings getting tinier and tinier, you will discover the majestic bridge and gradually the other side of the open sea will start opening up to you. That’s when you will understand why even Tromsø airport features Fjellheissen and Fjellheissen only.
After we got down from the Cable car, there is the viewing platform. There are two exits and you can come out in either direction. The two sides are connected. One side is mainly for the View and the other one is more for snow hiking and fun. In the middle, stands the one and only cafe at Fjellheissen. Well it’s actually a pretty small place and technically possible to complete the visit in 10minutes but the good lord will not forgive you if you do so.
When it gets freezing outside you can get some warmth inside and can grab a coffee, burger or dessert. The cafe not only serves food, drink, light snack, muffin, chocolates, ice creams but also souvenir magnets, postcards and few winter accessories. The price however was very confusing. We took coffee (pay once, refill as many times as you want) and muffin and those were quite cheap in Norway standard. But, hotdogs were damn expensive. If you are lucky and get a place at the windows you can enjoy the fabulous view over Tromsø. We have not managed to get one but still it’s pretty fantastic.
Unfortunately, you can see the hard reality of today. You probably have the most incredible landscape of your lifetime just outside the glass window and with you, the most precious person of your life but you choose to focus on the virtual world. After finishing our quick bites, we spent some more time photo and video-graphing from the viewing platform and as darkness started engulfing, we decided to head for the town centre.
Make sure to reserve a handful of time for Fjellheissen. If you are in the summer, you will get the opportunity to catch the midnight Sun from here. During Polar nights, you will find the landscape drastically is getting differed every hour. The cafe also has an attached washroom and you can use it for free irrespective of you have purchased anything or not. We spent around 4 hours on the top. By looking at three photos from the same position, I am sure you can feel the difference.
We took Bus 26 again to return to the city centre. The best part is that you do not have to change and it will take you directly to the city. To reach the heart of the city centre, get down at the bus stop near Peppes Pizza. Remember, google map public transit does not work in Tromsø. Put the destination, choose your location as the starting point and select walking. Get down when your sense tells you that you are enough near.
Tromsø National Library
Don’t be afraid. You don’t have to be a bookish person. What is unique about this library is the exterior. It is completely okay to skip a visit inside but like the Arctic cathedral, it would be a shame if you have this far but have not to come a little off route to visit this unique library. It’s around 700metre of walk from Peppes Pizza. It’s a little uphill but completely walkable and very much at the heart of the city.
If you are impressed with the external then here is one more unique fact for you. You are guessing that different people will react differently in the Arctic cold. There will be people who tend to be too hot or too cold. So for everyone’s comfort, the library has set different temperatures on different floors to make sure all visitors can enjoy their reading.
Tromsø Cathedral
At the very centre of the city, stands tall the cathedral of Tromsø. Unlike most of the cathedrals across mainland Europe, this one lacks Grand Architecture but once you step inside, you can feel the intimacy. The surrounding is fully covered in Snow. The seating benches are also not suitable to sit. We were exploring the shops at the opposite of this cathedral and as we had some time, thought to pay a visit. As soon as you push the door and come inside, it’s a different world altogether.
Considering the low volume of people, you can easily consider this as your personal cathedral. We visited this place twice and to our surprise, they offer cookies/waffles/some other takeways at completely free for any soul that stepped inside. Yes, it’s not marvelous from an architect standpoint but from a human standpoint, we would come back to this cathedral thousand times. Photo of interior and the outside seating area below
If you have a relaxed itinerary and interested in Culture, you can catch the daily concert “Sounds Of The North” by Arctic Vibe. The concert is held Monday – Saturday at 3:30 pm at Tromsø Cathedral. It is a 30minute concert and detailed information can be found here
We found this beautiful statue just outside the cathedral. I am unsure about its significance but isn’t it gorgeous? Let me know your thoughts about it in the comment section below
Raketten
If you have stumbled upon my other blogs already then you know I am not good at reviewing food joints. To be honest, that’s not my subject at all. But I have heard a lot about this place, only praise so we had to pay a visit. In one line this tiny little kiosk at the heart of the city centre serves the best burger (Reindeer or Pork and maybe vegan I am not very sure) in Tromsø at the cheapest price. There is no indoor seating facility but they have outdoor seating with log fireplace. Sit there are have a chat with fellow tourists from all over the world. Although we have not personally experienced but heard that their wine is of top class.
Some people even say that if you haven’t been to Raketten then you’ve not been to Tromsø. This little bar survived both world wars, and was designated as an important cultural monument in 2009. Even if you are not into Hot-dogs, you still can drop by here for a chat because the guys behind the counter can tell you when to stop talking and look at the sky. However, please note most of the times, it remains highly crowded. So, if you have other plans and are in rush, you may need to come back a different time to join the queue.
Northern Lights Chasing #1
We already had quite a busy day. Maybe it’s time for a good night rest. “Wait, the show is about to begin“ whispered the Night Sky. Then we remembered. It’s time. To witness the mythical Bifröst – a rainbow bridge of light that connects Asgard (the realm of the gods) to Midgard (the realm of mortals). To witness the mystic lady, the most unearthly phenomenon human eyes can see.
We have done a lot of research about tour operators conducting Northern lights tour. As I said before, DO NOT TRY DIY NORTHERN LIGHTS CHASING. Here are some tips for you regarding how to choose an operator of your choice
- There are three kinds of tour. We will not talk about private tour where it will be only you and your guide. You can imagine it costs a fortune. Other than that, you can choose between a minibus tour or a big bus tour. Minibus tour offerings are plenty but big bus tour is organized by very small number of operators.
- There are many advantages if you choose a Big Bus tour. We had five major reasons.
- Much cheap (Almost half price)
- Better luggage storage (We had rucksack and tripod)
- Toilet facility in the Bus
- A discount if we book more than one night
- The operator promised if minibus sees the light then so does the big bus.
- Why we have not chosen the Minibus tour? Is it only Cost? Primarily yes, but again three more reasons
- We stayed in Kroken so Hotel Pick up/Drop anyway is not included
- Less cabin space to store our bag (Remember we checked out the next day and stayed overnight in the Airport so we had to carry luggage in the second chase)
- Minibus operators advertise that they offer you tripod, warm coat, snow shoes so we don’t need those but we already had enough of those.
- Choose an operator which has big connection. Remember you are searching for the purest form of nature and you need much more than just luck. If your operator has a strong network then there are people on ground in different parts of Tromsø (Or maybe even in the Finland) and they know where exactly all the buses need to come for the night.
- Check unbiased reviews (Tripadvisor is a good starting point). If you see only locals are praising then there is a high chance of biassed review. People from Scandinavia most probably would not take an organised aurora tour because they simply know where to go. If people all over the world vote for a company then definitely that’s worth a try.
- In the official website, companies say that if I take a big bus then they will capture the landscape and group’s photo but not individual/couple photo and we can get personal photos taken by professional cameraperson in a minibus tour. It’s wrong. We traveled twice in big bus tour (One night we saw Aurora and the other night we didn’t). In both cases, the guides took extremely professional photos of ours in all the stops.
- There’s a misconception that big buses are large so they cannot travel to remote places where chance of seeing the Aurora is high. If you talk about night landscape then I can agree but it’s completely wrong if you talk about Aurora. You are looking at the sky my dear. There is no such thing as remote sky.
We booked two Big Bus trips from the company Chasing lights. When I was surveying the operators, this one came at one among the top three. They have not disappointed us. They are utterly punctual, super professional, excellent photographer, fantastic memory maker and try their best till last moment. They never cancel a trip whatever be the weather condition which I completely agree because you can’t predict mother nature. The only downside I would say is that almost none of the guides are local. Even with their experience and knowledge they are superb but being a local brings an added advantage.
On our first night, we have not seen the Northern light. But we have seen the Arctic. My advice to all my readers is that when you opt for a Northern light tour, don’t ever think that if you don’t see the aurora then it’s a complete waste of money. Yes, aurora is out of the world but a night at the Arctic is also heavenly. Never in my dream I have imagined that one day we would be in the middle of such a place. Everywhere we look around is surrounded by the mountains. Everywhere we step on, it’s thick layer of ice. It was -26°C and the snow did not even whisper its way to the Earth but seemed to salt the night with silence.
In total darkness, We walked beside Arctic fjords. We got stunned at the sight of Snowy peaks reflection in the water (At night it’s simply beyond desciption). We walked over Frozen lakes. Felt the coldness of Winter Forest and the warmth of Campfire. Sat on rocks laid over the Arctic sea, moved passed Arctic sea beach and traveled a lot across many places of Tromsø while hearing the science and myths behind the Aurora.
Our first was a grand success. “What? you have not seen the aurora” you might be thinking. But yes, however hard it seems to believe, always remember that it’s the journey, the places where you lay your feet, the silence, the rawness, the hope, the group, the stories and the most important one, the memories that count. Although we saw the Aurora on the second night but we can confidently say our experience of the first night was better. Why? Two reasons. We have focused on the raw nature instead of the light and secondly (bit personal) the guides were more friendly.
Day 3
When Chasing Lights Big bus dropped us at the City Centre (Kaigata/Sameul Arnesens gate), they said that if we need a taxi but couldn’t find one then their office is open for 30 more minutes as they will be finishing some work. So, we can contact them and they will arrange something. Luckily we got a taxi for our hotel immediately and the bill was 180Kr. Think again how much you can save if you stay outside Tromsø.
Arctic Roadtrip
After so much hesitation, we invested in this trip. Compared to Iceland or Lofoten island, there are not enough online articles or reviews about a roadtrip of Tromsø. However, we saved enough on accommodation and food. We needed some place to dump our backpacks too (Yes, it’s our final day in Tromsø and to save money, we already checked out with the plan to go to Airport straight after the Northern light chase) so we tried our luck. And oh boy, people don’t know what they miss when they skip this one.
The landscape is so dynamic and unique that I have written a complete separate blog about just the Arctic Roadtrip of Tromsø. Please read the blog here. To show you the trailer, I am just posting some more pictures from the roadtrip. Don’t be afraid. It’s cheaper than one night’s Northern light chase tour.
If you stay at least one night in Tromsø then depending on your interest, please choose either Husky sledding or Arctic day trip. Don’t just leisure around the harbour or at the cathedrals. We already did a Husky Sled in Rovaniemi, Finland so we opted for this roadtrip. You will return to Tromsø with enough time (around 2 hours) to join any Northern lights tour no matter which company you choose. But if you have a Northern lights tour then you won’t get time to visit Fjellheisen. So, you need a separate day. Period.
Tromsø City Centre
The main pedestrian street in Tromsø is called Storgata, and there are many shops, cafes, and restaurants lined up one after another. If you are roaming all day and want to grab a snack before Northern lights tour, there are plenty of choices of light snack to complete dinner. If you are looking for budget option and already tried Raketten, then Burger King is your best friend. Well, quality and taste differs from person to person but we found it quite satisfying, full and fresh. They speak perfect English and attitude of the front desk staffs were courteous.
Souvenir is quite expensive (Even Key-Ring/Fridge Magnet) and Garments were completely over budget considering our style of vacation. However, the choice of souvenir is abundance. From native Reindeer to Aurora to the city landmarks to the ancient Vikings, there are plenty of choices for Souvenir
The best part of Tromsø city centre is walking along the harbour side. It’s really impressive to watch the mountains and the grand Norwegian sea. Watching Arktikum with a snowy mountain backdrop from the opposite side of the bridge is a mesmerizing sight on its own.
Northern Lights Chasing #2
After exploring the city centre and collecting souvenir, we boarded the big bus again. Same place, same company but different set of guides. We boarded with a new hope if Tromsø blessed us with her grand finale. Although the chase itself is pretty awesome on its own and we can see places like no other but in the end the main intention is to watch the aurora, isn’t it?
And we were not disappointed.
The touch of green lady at night makes you realize what a tiny place you occupy in the world. Some say that the Auroras are a reflection of the beauty which exists in diversity. No matter whether we go by the Science or start believing the Myth, the Northern lights by the Pitch black night are something I would say the photos cannot justify. It’s not only about the green sky but about the experience of the chase that keeps us moving towards the impossible.
One thing you need to keep in mind that the Northern lights appear much (I cannot stress enough how much) bright through the lens than naked eye. So, when the guides announced that the show is on, at first we found it really difficult to understand where the aurora display is happening. We looked through their camera and then after focusing to that part of the Sky, it became clear to our inexperienced eye.
I will be writing a separate blog only about Northern Lights in Tromsø. Stay tuned because after seeing the Aurora, we realised that it’s actually very much possible to witness it in Daylight as well. And it’s not only me, we confirmed this with our guide who happened to be a local born and brought up in Tromsø.
Midnight Transportation
From Early Morning till Midnight, Tromsø has fantastic network of Public transport. It’s between 12AM-6AM, you will be needing Taxi. The only reason you would need transport that late is if you have returned from a Northern lights tour. In that case, you will be at the centre. Ask your guide where to stand to get Taxi. Availability of Taxi is not super frequent but if you wait 15-20minutes then you will surely get one. On our first night, we found Taxis waiting to be boarded. On the second night, we had to wait for about 15minutes.
The Taxis are metered. The display of fare inside the taxi is real time. We were afraid if the drivers deny to go to a certain place outside Tromsø but they never asked a question. Yes, it’s not a cheap ride but you are in Scandinavia. The ride to Airport costed us around 220Kr at 2AM.
How to Reach Tromsø
The best and most convenient way to reach Tromsø is by flight. We flew from Helsinki via Stockholm and in return journey we flew to Budapest via Oslo. Airport Express coaches are perfectly timed with the arrival and departure of flights. From London Gatwick, Frankfurt, Munich, Gdansk, Copenhagen and rarely from Zurich, there are direct flights. If you are already in Norway (Oslo/Bergen/Bodo/Lofoten etc.) then domestic flights are quite frequent. In either case, if booked early fare is quite affordable.
It’s not possible to reach Tromsø by train. The most popular route is to take overnight train from Stockholm Airport which offers a breathtaking journey and gets you to Narvik from where you can catch connecting bus to Tromsø. From Norway, there are other train connections but you have to change quite a lot so I would not recommend that route.
Perhaps the most exciting and scenic way to reach Tromsø is by taking a Hurtigruten cruise. From Bergen (3 days sail) or Bodø (1 day sail), this cruise is a trip by itself. There are other departing points as well but for a tourist maybe those are not very useful to mention. On our final day, we found this beast anchored at the harbour of Tromsø. Well, I would not lie. We wished if we could board.
This link has official list of transport options to reach Tromsø and it’s quite complete. I would strongly recommend you to visit here. Another comprehensive guide is here.
Winter Packing List
There goes a famous saying – “There’s no such thing as bad weather, only unsuitable clothing.” If you look at the temperature, we got in the range of -26°C to -4°C. Remember that we are actually from India and in our hometown, we experience more than 40°C in summer and the lowest it gets in Winter is around 8°C. But did we face any problem in walking over thick layers of snow? Did we experience Frost bite? Do you need alcohol to keep your body warm? (I understand this is a stupid question, but Yes, we never tasted a single drop of Alcohol)
Yes, it’s freezing cold. Especially during the night. When you are switching back and forth between fire and snow or between the comfort of heater inside Bus and the pure madness outside. All the roads are always covered in thick snow and some parts (where vehicles ply) often become slippery because of black ice. Unlike Rovaniemi, weather here is quite unpredictable. So it’s very important to pack right stuffs to enjoy
- Base layer is the most important. Wear thermal base layer that covers your body and legs properly. For the bottom part, tight fittings are preferable.
- Wear two layers of gloves. Inside a mitten is preferable because your fingers will keep each other warm. For using mobile, buy touch screen glove. Remember, if you remove your gloves for using mobile, you are in trouble.
- For shoes, three parameters are to be kept in mind. Your shoes need to be waterproof. It’s better if you wear a size which is slightly larger than your original shoe size. And, lastly the longer your shoes, the safer you are.
- Wear woolen socks. If your shoe is not tall enough and if there is a chance that melted snow can make your sock wet then wear two layers of socks (inside one can be of cotton).
- If you are expecting a Sunny weather (Only applicable if you visit Rovaniemi outside Polar night), then carry a Sunglass. When the sun is out and there is snow all around, you simply cannot open your eyes without wearing a sunglass.
- Cover your nose and ears fully. It’s very very important. If you allow wind to pass through your ear, you will catch cold. If you don’t give any protection to your nose, there is a high chance that water droplets inside nostril will get frozen and then you are in big trouble.
- Don’t pack any cotton (Except inner sock). Cotton is your enemy in Extreme cold weather.
- Wear 3 layers at least (4 is safer) and make sure the outer one is water resistant. After all, you will be doing winter activities so it’s a must.
Where To Stay
I would not recommend staying inside Tromsø. Why? Because it’s super expensive. And secondly it’s quite busy. Souvenir shops and food joints are stacked one after another. The roads are full of black ice because of continuous vehicle movement. Even if you stay at a super expensive hotel (Like the Radisson Blu) with a grand view, you may face tough luck if a cruise anchors. With its massive size, it will simply block your unobstructed mountain and sea view.
We chose Kroken. It was the best decision. Travel time was about 20minutes from Tromsø. Availability of Bus was not an issue. You can also choose Sommarøy, a paradise on Earth. Just make sure to ask your host about public transport options. If you need to rely fully on Taxi then your cost will jump up and you won’t enjoy the benefit of cheap accommodations. I would not recommend about hiring a car.
Language In Tromsø
Norwegian is the official language in Tromsø. Swedish and Danish are also quite popular here. Although English is not native here, everyone we met spoke English fairly well. Unlike Germany or Italy where we faced quite some challenges in explaining what we want, we managed Tromsø quite well with English. All the tours were conducted purely in English. Our host spoke perfect English and every person behind the counter spoke good English.
Tromsø Husky Sledding
Second to the Northern lights, the most popular reason for coming to Tromsø is Dog sledding. You read any Article about Winter in Tromsø and Dog Sledding is probably number one bucketlist. It does not happen if there is not enough snow. Roughly you can assume Husky sledding in Tromsø is possible from November to Mid April. We were almost convinced that except Northern light hunting if there is only one thing to do at Tromsø then it’s mushing the Huskies.
Then we checked the price and let it go.
That’s also the reason we chose to experience it in Rovaniemi because Bearhill Huskies offer a short but similar experience at much lower cost. Don’t get me wrong. If we can save enough then we would surely come back to sled here at Tromsø but it’s also important for you to understand that there are alternatives. However, if you choose to skip Fjellheissen or the Arctic Roadtrip then you will be missing something unique.
If you are still interested, regular sledding around Tromsø is approximately a 4 hours tour where the operator will first pick you up from Tromsø and drive outskirts. You will meet the enthusiastic dogs. If you are at least 14-16 years old (Age limit depends on the tour agency) then you will be allowed to drive the sled after a quick training. If you choose to sit back and enjoy, that’s also possible. The ride is about 40-50 minutes through pure raw Arctic Nature. On our roadtrip, we witnessed a group mushing a group of huskies.
Nearby Destination
For exploring nearby islands, it’s best to book the accommodation in a different place outside Tromsø. Your journey between your accommodation and Tromsø would be a treat each time. The only place I would recommend outside what I said above is the Ice Domes. You can check the official website here. It’s much far from the city so you actually need a full day to go there, experience it and come back. In photos, I believe it’s more impressive than the Snowman World in Rovaniemi. However, if I have to pick the best, I would go for Jukkasjärvi in Sweden.
*The above photo is from VisitSweden Website
You should not come to Tromsø for the Northern lights nor the Midnight Sun. You should not come here for Husky Sled. Not because it’s in the Arctic circle and not so overcrowded. You should come here for the totality. To bow down before the Grand Arctic landscape of pure rawness. I already said and will repeat (probably thousand times) Tromsø is a place like no other.
I heard about many people dropping their plan to Tromsø because it’s too expensive so I decided to write an article focusing how to reduce the Hopefully you found this article interesting, inspirational and useful. I know you still have so many questions. Please feel free to use the comment box and let me know your thoughts, feedback, criticism and most importantly questions. I will help as quickly as possible. Till then, Hejdå.